I
went to South Africa with 1900 Programming in 1970 and spent 3/4 fantastic years
there - what a great place!!
Bit of trepidation before going - because of
the Apartheid thing - didn't agree with that - how would I live with it??
It came out of the blue...I was working in the
London office and
Wal and I went skiing in his Marcos in March 1970, and on our return,
Bassy and
KPJ
had decided that things were bad in South Africa, and it needed sorting out, so
I'd go there with KPJ spending lots of time there too.
Arrived 10 May, 1970, into the Astor Hotel
where all the new arrivals were put and had to endure the first 'dealing with
black Africans/apartheid' sort of thing.... see below.
Within 30 minutes of arriving
Fred Boulton (who I'd never met),
Graeme Wallace (who I knew well) and a couple of others were downstairs
ready for a few drinks and some lunch - and so it went - straight into the fray!
At the hotel, you could order a morning paper
(or not), and a morning drink (or not) - I'd decided that rather than an alarm
call - Room Service delivering ONLY a drink would be enough of a wake-up, so had
asked for Hot Tea at 07:00AM.
He was a lovely guy, and over the weeks I got
to know him a bit, and we laughed and joked - good fun, but I'm sure that what
he was doing was in some way - the African's revenge - because of Apartheid.
Knock-knock - "room-service" - "Jesus, is it 07:00Am already?" - leap out of
bed, go to door - there he is "Morning Bossy, your Coffee" - look at watch - its
04:30AM!! Tell him to bugger-off, go back to bed...... Knock-knock -
"room-service" - "Jesus, is it 07:00Am already again?" - leap out of bed,
go to door - there he is "Morning Bossy, your Newspaper" - look at watch - its
05:15AM!! Tell him to bugger-off, go back to bed...... Knock-knock -
"room-service" - "Jesus, is it 07:00Am already again, again?" - leap out
of bed, go to door - there he is "Morning Bossy, your Hot Chocolate" - look at
watch - its 06:00AM!! ....etc... I don't think he got it exactly right any
morning of my 2 week+ stay!! Nor would I have - if I'd had to endure what they
(the Africans) did.
And on that subject.... (apartheid)! I think it
was bad, inhuman and there wasn't much an individual could do about it.
I'll largely ignore descriptions of work,
suffice to say that I transferred within 1900 Programming and therefore lots of
socialising was done with work colleagues. Outside of work - life was great - I
moved into a serviced apartment (The Augustus) in Illovo (northern suburbs of
Johannesburg). All around were BIG houses in BIG grounds, with pools and tennis
courts and well tended gardens - paradise! I had a variety of rented cars
including South Africa's own (a Ranger) - which was basically a rebadged GM/Opel
- managed to write it off on the way back from Durban.
Evenings were spent boozing in bars or at home
and eating out - lots of time spent at Cafe Mozart, the Coffee Shop at Rand
International Hotel etc whilst weekends were for "getting away from the city",
mostly camping or staying at Holiday Inn type hotels:
 | Durban was a favourite trip -
leave around 17/18:00 on Friday evening (this is before the Expressway was
built), and bash on through the Free State, stop for petrol at Harriesmith then
through Van Reenen's Pass, off the Highveldt down to the Lowveldt, through
Pietermaritzburg and into Durban - usually used to stay at Durban View Hotel,
just 5/10 miles north at Umhlanger Rocks. 5 to 6 hours if you stopped for a
bite at the petrol fill-up - 400+ miles - not bad! But the enjoyment of driving
on empty roads (single lane in each direction), in total darkness - and seeing
a small town (street lights etc..) on the horizon, and it getting nearer and
nearer - really felt like "being all alone out there". In those days there was
only 1 set of traffic lights - the whole way, and that was in one of those
piddly dorps. |
 | Mozambique (Xai-Xai (pronounced
Shy-Shy) or Zavora) these were reserved for longer weekends, because the border
crossing at Komaatipoort closed around 22:00 until 06:00AM - I can remember
joining the queue of cars around 01:00Am, and just snuggling down to sleep -
there wasn't anything else to do - nothing there. Joburg to the border was
about 350+ miles, and from there to Xai-Xai was through Lorenco Marques (now
Maputo) - nothing great - but lots of Portuguese influence as you'd imagine -
and then about another 200 miles up the coast - along paved roads, which were
wide enough for only 1 car - so when another came in the other direction, or if
there was an overtaking move - the etiquette was for both cars to put 2 of
their wheels in the dirt and 2 on the tarmac, slackening speed only slightly. I
remember Fred used to get fed up with this (in his punchy Peugeot) - I'd follow
him, and when a car came in the other direction, I'd stay all 4 wheels on the
tarmac, Fred would do likewise until about 100 yards separated he and oncomer,
then he would swerve - as if out of control (left and right) - invariably the
other guy dived for the dirt, and we'd both give the thumbs up as we
steamed on....stupid!! Camping at Xai-Xai was hot - I remember 112 F. degrees
in the shade (and there wasn't any) one year, but there was super swimming with
a "protective" reef keeping sharks out - except that some silly sod blew part
of it up one year - so he could get his boat out into high-seas - and then of
course there were the "blue-bottles" - jellyfish - swarms of them - but you had
to ignore them - and get on and enjoy!! Remember Clive Lewis, Fred and I one
year just hanging onto an inner tube and getting smashed by the surf -
fantastic!! but we were always "frightened" about the sharks that may have been
close by - ooooohhhh eeeeerrrrrr!! Great snorkeling on the reef. |
 | Swaziland & The Drakensbergs
amazing scenery, and little African kraals everywhere, you could drive all day,
stopping at waterfalls and view-sites and see very few other cars. |
 | Lesotho same as Swaziland - but
if anything - more rugged scenery - lots of river erosion. Can remember
arriving in the Swaziland capital Mbabane - Holiday Inn and seeing Ross (work
colleague) and his wife Georgina at breakfast, not knowing they were going
there that weekend. Next weekend - same thing happened in Lesotho/Maseru -
travel 400+ miles to stay with people you work with!! |
 | Garden Route - Cape Town
driving from Joburg down to the coast at Durban, and then all the way along the
coast to Cape Town - fantastic mountainous and coastal scenery, Stellenbosch,
the wineries and of course Cape Town, Cape Point etc.. you've seen the pictures
- it really is that great. I once drove back from Cape Town to Joburg in 11h 55
mins - its something like 800/900 miles, but empty roads - I had the punchy
Chrysler Valiant Rebel by then - good car!! One good experience was staying
overnight in the Transkei or Ciskei (can't remember which) - in those days it
was a Bantu Homeland - where oiks of that tribe were supposed to be able to
self-govern etc... not much of a prospect considering the Homelands had no
ability to trade with any countries they may border - anyway we tried to stay
at the nicest looking hotel in the capital (forgotten its name too) - but we
were refused - because we were white!! great!! OUR hotel was down the road -
and wasn't too nice!! |
 | Desert and Big Hole at Kimberly
the Big Hole is worth a visit (biggest man made hole in the world). I once
stayed at a hotel with the Hole at the bottom of the garden. Dug by miners
looking for gold or diamonds. Kimberly isn't much, but the route back from Cape
Town goes through. |
 | Botswana only went there once
on business - we were doing a project for the Government in the capital
Gaborone - and what a one-horse town it was. Some idea may be gained from the
fact that the capital of Botswana used to be in a different country (Mafeking
in South Africa),before they decided to build Gaborone!! |
 | Rhodesia or Zimbabwe went there
camping - a 4 week driving camping holiday. Joburg, north to Beit Bridge/Limpopo
border and Bulawayo- then 900 miles up to Victoria Falls - stopping off at
Wankie Game reserve (largest concentrations of elephant anywhere in the world -
we saw one in 2 days!!). Vic Falls is great - the rain forest and up river
cruise, then off to Salisbury/Harare (Matopos Hills are great) and Umtali, then
off to the coast at Beira in Mozambique from where we'd planned to drive down
the coast on a "newly completed highway" - didn't exist, and we ended up doing
about 3,000 miles going back into Rhodesia out into South Africa then back into
Mozambique to get to Xia-Xai |
Fred Boulton's flat in Berea became a bit of a
Sunday morning thing - buy some booze and the Sunday papers on the way there (if
you hadn't picked them up from a seller at the traffic lights on the way home
late Saturday night/early Sunday morning) - then just sit listening to good
music - on the Sinclair Hi-Fi.
I moved into a fantastic pad again in Illovo,
next door to the Augustus. It was a large house (maybe 4/5 bedrooms) with small
cottages (rondhavels) throughout the gardens. The guy who owned it didn't live
there, and only rented out a couple of rooms in the main house and all the
rondhavels ONLY to male bachelors. What a time we had. There were about 10
servants (cooks, cleaners etc..) my car was washed every morning, there was a
beautiful garden with pool and every Saturday or Sunday in the Spring/Summer
there would be a barbecue. Shame - I went back there years later, and it had all
been knocked down and bull-dozed into the pool prior to being remade into a
small apartment block....memories!
Back to
Lived-in
|